Wales - walking Offa's Dyke

The original Offa’s Dyke earthwork is Britain’s longest ancient monument, named after the powerful 8C Saxon King Offa, who decreed a defensive earthen barrier be built as a monument to his greatness and to discourage the hostile Welsh Celtic tribes in the west raiding his kingdom and we were off to walk some of it.......




Found a long-term park in Prestatyn North Wales and tucked Little Blue up for a week. We set off walking about 1:00pm, all uphill for miles. We called a halt at 6pm and we camped in the Clywdan Hills with a fabulous 270 degree view.


On talking to some people, we found that there were no shops on the trail for the next 3 days and we only had muesli, so caught a bus to Denbigh. Ian bought trail food while I photo-copied the Offa's Dyke guidebook in the library!




Walked on over the next 3 peaks of the Clywdan hills, fabulous views over rounded tops but steep ascents/descents.



Reached a carpark with just one peak to go and were going to camp. Just then the rain poured down but my poncho was totally NOT waterproof. The rain just ran through. We got a lift from a local guy to the nearest caravan (only) park. The owner took pity on us and allowed us camp on his front lawn.


Up next morning and dried all our stuff in the tumble drier (including our sleeping bags which had been slowly accumulating moisture from weeks of camping). The camp ground owner took us to the nearest town of Mold where there happened to be a market,so I got another jacket.



After returning to where we were rescued from the rain the day before. We ascended and descended another hill to Clywd Gate and on to Llandegla. We put up the tent in the big shed behind the memorial hall. Walked in torrential rain to the Crown for a pint of cider and got a replacement spoon for Ian.
On the road after buying essentials from the Post Office, store and cafe combined. Up through a cool pine plantation and then out onto open moorland.




Crossed a huge scree slope below an escarpment where we had a sunny lunch.


Walked on to Abbey Farm (where there is a ruined abbey) Did the laundry and had Welsh Tea while waiting. Welsh Tea turns out to be the normal scone with clotted cream and jam plus a huge slab of Bara Brith (which is a fruit cake).



Walked in to LLangollen across the river Dee, then on in the rain along the tow path alongside the canal all the way to an aqueduct across the River Dee. Chatted with some of the narrowboat people as we overtook them. One was on day hire and he was ricocheting down the canal even on the straight bits. Screams from the kids each time they bumped into the walls of the canal.


The Telford-designed aqueduct was really cool, so far up!






Walked to Castle Mill in the rain and finally got a B&B. After a huge breakfast in the sun (with rain forecast) watching the ducks and chickens and off at 9:30 for what will be a big day (26km).



Finally walked on some of Offa's Dyke. It is quite an impressive earthwork considering it was done in the 8th century. Well the huge day turned out to be immense with packs (13kg for me and 18kg for Ian) and in rain except for lunchtime. We arrived at the Golden Lion (a pub with a camping lawn beside) at 7pm with no more than an hour for breaks all day. Absolutely shattered and nought but... Pasta for dinner. Into the pub for live music (Blues night). The band outnumbered patrons 6:4. Great guitar playing!



Hobbled out at about 9:30 shattered from previous day's walk. Only 15km today basically all flat along Offa's Dyke which is also used as flood control embankments for the River Severn then in the rain over grassy fields.
Up onto the canal towpath for lunch in the sun and then rain again all the way to Welshpool.


We organised a B&B at the tourist information and then walked up to it for a welcome shower and cuppa.
Back down the hill into town for supplies and a dinner of fish & chips in the setting sun, very nice.

That was the last day on the walk. We need to get along as heading back to Europe to be in Munich by 15th September.


Caught the train back to Prestatyn where little blue has been faithfully waiting.


Drove into Snowdonia, north-west Wales on the way to Portmeirion where they made the TV series "The Prisoner". It is a bit of a cult thing and I have always wanted to go there.It is a very cool italianate village set on the banks of an estuary in Wales.

See next post.....

Hello Fudge

Hello Fudge from Marg Meyle on Vimeo.

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Bonny Scotland

Finally got to Scotland late in the afternoon




......and camped in Innerleith by the river. Up in the morning and off to the highlands



The highlands and glens are fantastic! There has been lots of rain so the waterfalls and Lochs were spectacular.




Had morning tea in the sunshine on a bed of heather, wonderful.



We visited Culloden battlefield



and then free-camped on the shores of Loch Ness. We did not however see Nessie even though there was an article in the Scottish Telegraph about her (obviously not enough tourist traffic this year)




Came on to the Isle of Skye. Very rugged and picturesque.




Camped near Portree and spent an afternoon drying the small tent (which we used to free-camp) and doing some washing (Ian was on to second time round for socks). We camped under yet another sticky
tree (of a different variety) so the tent had about 20 wasps hoovering up the tiny droplets of resin.
We did a circumnavigation of Totternish (one arm of the isle). Since the "Small Cosy Tea-house was closed on Mondays we had to make do with a slap-up feed in the Arosay Tea-house in the quaint sounding village of Uig. No idea how to pronounce that without offending somebody.



Some of the amazing scenery we saw in Skye.





Slept in the same camp that night. Rained like mad and so we packed up a wet tent. There was a Polish motorcyclist there that we had met in the evening sunshine. By morning, he had his tiny tent draped in a large sheet of plastic and the motorcycle cover to try to keep dry. No actual sign of him when we left at 9:30 except an arm snaking out at about 8:00 to adjust his waterproofing.



Drove out of Skye and down towards the bonny banks of Loch Lomond. The weather was rubbish when we got to Fort William (from where you climb Ben Nevis, the UK's tallest mountain) and forecast for thunderstorms so flagged that.



We drove down through Glencoe through some spectacular scenery and eventually stopped at Loch Ken (not far from Lochette Barbie). Not much to report from there except no midges! The midges are fiendish in the highlands, tiny little biters that you inhale, ingest and insult. We had bought our geeky midge nets but since you can't eat, drink or read while wearing it, there is little point. 30% DEET is the story.



Drove on down via the lake district to the start of the Offa's Dyke walk at Prestatyn.


On the way we stopped at Gretna Green, famous for being where God-fearing Englishmen could nip across the border into Scotland for a quick wedding (post consummation I assume). Kinda like an English Reno except the business was done in a blacksmith's not an Elvis wedding chapel.



Now there happens to be an outlet mall full of outdoor stores! Berghaus, Outdoor Warehouse, Trespass, Sport Direct and Yeoman Outdoor. Since we reaaaallly needed some waterproof overtrousers for the walk we stopped. We are now Berghaus replete. Hence when we passed through Windermere, where almost every store was an outdoor store, we could laugh in the face of temptation. Ha ha

Nottingham, Northumberland and North to Scotland

After 17,000 kilometres Little Blue was back to England and still going strong. We rested up and planned the next leg of our journey.

Off up North!

First stop
Nottingham to see the birth place? of Robin Hood and stay with friends. And off course take in one or two of the old pubs near by.




Had to see this..... The Angel of the North




And it is as spectacular as it looks.

On up to Northumberland and we spent the day walking a part of Hadrian’s Wall. It was built under the reign of the Roman Emperor Hadrian, the wall is 134 kilometres long.
The part we did was along unbroken parts of the wall that dip and swerve over high ground. The path had spectacular views which is probably unchanged since the days of the Roman legions.







Next stop Holy Island or Lindisfarne. It is an historic island which lies just off the extreme Northeast corner of England near Berwick-upon-Tweed. The small population of just over 160 is swelled by the influx of over 650,000 visitors from all over the world every year.



It is a tidal island that you can only get to by a paved causeway which is covered by the North Sea twice every day.




Locally the island is rarely referred to by its Anglo-Saxon name of 'Lindisfarne'. Following on from the murderous and bloodthirsty attack on the monastery by the Vikings in 793AD, it got its local name from the observations made by the Durham monks: 'Lindisfarne - baptised in the blood of so many good men - truly a 'Holy Island"





We went to Holy Island and walked around the priory (which is a pilgrimage site in the UK) and then out to the C16th castle which had been tastefully redecorated by a Dutch family about the turn of the century. They had turned a fort into a cosy weekend bach ha ha




No this is not for rent.... Just a way of recycling your old boat.....


Before we left for the wilds of Scotland we were lucky to spot Andy Howey's Bird of Prey centre just over the causeway. A lot of the birds were open and uncaged, just tethered to the perch. They had all been fed so were digesting a hearty meal. AND sooooo many were OWLS!

Some of my favorites are below.
You who know and love me will already know how I feel about these birds.




I love them.








Then we saw the flying demo with a barn owl and a Harris hawk. They flew from group to group landing on your hand to eat the minced meat.




Finally they got out an enormous owl (like 1.5m wingspan) and repeated the flying from group to group. Very cool and enjoyable.







Yes I want one!

Into France ... First stop Roncesvalles.

Returned to a place we were in 11 years ago when we walked the Camino. We left from Roncesvalles and crossed the Pyrenees the first day. This time we stayed in a campsite very near town and it certainly didn't take us all day in the car. Still a beautiful spot.
Lost the muffler and had to wait a few days for one to arrive...... Not a problem!
You can see why!




The river runs through the centre of town.




View from the Citadel looking over the town.


We tried to find the little place we stayed in with the girls last time we were here. Think this was it?





No only joking!

This is one of the views into the tiny houses as you walk up the street. It was full of stuffed animals. Not much room for anything else.

Porto

Last fantastic place before we left for the north.




The boat trip down the Douro, dinner on the promenade, port tasting, Hotel Rex, and most of all meeting new friends

Thanks Erika and Sergio!

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Camping in France .... Next stop GB

Went up the Atlantic coast of France (west coast). We stayed in lots of camping grounds but this one was one of our favorites. It was just a field where the owner, who is seen in her car below, came over from her house to collect the money and collect the rubbish!




A very slick operation....and we were very impressed with the valiant service the Renault 4 was doing.




This is Jarnac and we visited the Courvoissier Cognac makers. It was open this time!




Further up the coast to the island of Noir Moutier where they still harvest the salt.




Up to the wild coast of Brittany and then 5 great days camping with Linda and Paul near Morlaix.








See you when you get back from France xxxxx
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